FLINDERS RANGES AND OUTBACK
As you head north into South Australia's famed Flinders Ranges, the Australian out¬back surpasses legend and becomes dirt real. The endless hills of colored dust and sagebrush, with the road threading through them like a dribble, make all the trite say¬ings come true. Humans become minuscule in the face of the land, the sky never ends, the colors deepen with the setting sun as intense russets, blazing oranges, and soft purples emerge and darken before the burning sun reclaims the land with its unrelenting glare
The Flinders Ranges begin at the northern end of the Gulf of St. Vincent and con¬tinue 400km into South Australia's vast northern outback. Within the Ranges, the southernmost national park is Mt. Remarkable (15,632 hectares). The Flinders Ranges National Park (92,746 hectares) comprises a large portion of the central Ranges, including Brachina Gorge and Wilpena Pound. The Gammon Ranges National Park (128,228 hectares) contains much of the rugged wilderness of the northern Ranges. If you're planning to hike in the central Ranges, Quorn is the best base. Of course, camping is always an option, especially in the north.
North of the Flinders, a moisture-deprived basin has created the salt flats of Lake Torrens and Lake Eyre. Much of the sparsely populated outback beyond is encom¬passed by the Desert Parks nature reserve. The Oodnadatta Track is a rough 4WD circuit carving through this area. Most people who travel through northern SA, how¬ever, are interested in getting through it as soon as possible en route to the more touristed loci of the Red Centre, including Ayers Rock and Alice Springs in the Northern Territory. The Stuart Highway, which slices the continent in half from Port Augusta up to Darwin, is the quickest and, for the most part, the only option. The road passes through the outback outpost of Coober Pedy on its way to the NT.
A car allows flexibility in traveling this region, but with many roads unsealed, 4WD is essential if you plan to diverge from the Stuart Hwy. Keep in mind that this region, although arid, is subject to flash flooding. Before setting out it is always a good idea to check road conditions on the Northern Road Conditions Hotline. Towns are few and far between, so fill your tank whenever you strike petrol. Carry plenty of water for long drives as well (both for drinking and for your car). Also note that banking services are extremely limited in these parts. Only Cooper Pedy has an ATM, although Quorn has EFTPOS. Carry ample cash and traveler's checks.