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Australia has the upper hand heading into the final day of play in second cricket test in Melbourne
Australia has South Africa on the ropes after four days of the second cricket test in Melbourne.
At stumps, the Proteas are struggling at 99 for six in their second innings, chasing 366 to win.
Skipper Graeme Smith is the only batsman to offer any significant resistance, making 25.
Shane Warne has picked up three wickets for 43 runs off 15 overs, while Andrew Symonds has chipped in with two for six off four overs.
South Africa has also received some bad news off the pitch, with Makhaya Ntini ruled out of the third test with a knee injury.
Ntini suffered a torn medial ligament during Australia’s second innings on Wednesday.
Soure: tmcnet.com
Juice maker Berri now 100% foreign
Australia’s biggest juice maker, Berri Ltd, has now transferred completely into foreign ownership, with Asian beverages giant San Miguel Corp buying out the rest of the company it didn’t already own.
Philippines-based San Miguel has purchased the remaining 49 per cent stake in Berri – the company behind brands such as Australian Fresh, Daily Juice and Just Juice – for $169 million from former Berri chairman Doug Shears.
Mr Shears originally sold 50 per cent of the company to San Miguel for $167.5 million in August last year, with San Miguel soon after buying an additional one per cent from him to gain majority ownership.
San Miguel’s move to clean up the rest of the company has been widely expected since its $1.9 billion takeover of Australian dairy group National Foods Ltd earlier this year.
More: news.ninemsn.com.au
Australia still top dogs despite Ashes woe
Australia’s domination of world cricket was seriously challenged in 2005 for the first time this century after the most dramatic series in living memory.
England’s 2-1 victory over Ricky Ponting’s team wrested the sport’s oldest prize out of Australian hands for the first time since 1989.
Although Ponting’s men recovered quickly to crush West Indies 3-0 and consolidate their position at the top of the world rankings, the defeat by England showed up clear chinks in their armour.
Elsewhere in 2005, the global pecking order remained largely unchanged with South Africa, India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, New Zealand and West Indies vying for the minor placings and Zimbabwe plunging further into trouble on and off the pitch.
In the Ashes series in England the hosts fought back from heavy defeat in the first test at Lord’s to force a nail-biting victory at Edgbaston.
Australia clung on for a draw at Old Trafford but England would not be denied at Trent Bridge, where they scrambled home by three wickets after being set just 129 for victory.
More: today.reuters.co.uk
Australia’s S&P/ASX 200 Drops, Led by Rinker and James Hardie
Australia’s S&P/ASX 200 Index fell from a record, led by Rinker Group Ltd. as home sales dropped in the U.S., its biggest market.
The S&P/ASX 200 Index lost 10.1, or 0.2 percent, to 4762.4 as of 10:20 a.m. in Sydney. About three stocks fell for every two that gained.
New Zealand’s NZX 50 Index added 0.5 percent to 3373.01 as of 12:20 p.m. in Wellington.
Rinker, the biggest supplier of cement blocks in the U.S., fell 23 cents, or 1.4 percent, to A$16.54. James Hardie Industries NV, the biggest supplier of home siding in the U.S., slid 7 cents, or 0.8 percent, to A$8.93. Both companies get more than 75 percent of their sales in the U.S.
U.S. stocks dropped as sales of previously owned homes declined by a worse-than-expected 1.7 percent last month to the lowest level in eight months, increasing concern the world’s biggest economy will falter in 2006.
The benchmark index is poised for an 18 percent rise this year, after a 23 percent jump in 2004, the best performance in more than a decade.
More: bloomberg.com
Australia’s S&P/ASX 200 Drops, Led by Rinker and James Hardie
Australia’s S&P/ASX 200 Index fell from a record, led by Rinker Group Ltd. as home sales dropped in the U.S., its biggest market.
The S&P/ASX 200 Index lost 10.1, or 0.2 percent, to 4762.4 as of 10:20 a.m. in Sydney. About three stocks fell for every two that gained.
New Zealand’s NZX 50 Index added 0.5 percent to 3373.01 as of 12:20 p.m. in Wellington.
Rinker, the biggest supplier of cement blocks in the U.S., fell 23 cents, or 1.4 percent, to A$16.54. James Hardie Industries NV, the biggest supplier of home siding in the U.S., slid 7 cents, or 0.8 percent, to A$8.93. Both companies get more than 75 percent of their sales in the U.S.
U.S. stocks dropped as sales of previously owned homes declined by a worse-than-expected 1.7 percent last month to the lowest level in eight months, increasing concern the world’s biggest economy will falter in 2006.
The benchmark index is poised for an 18 percent rise this year, after a 23 percent jump in 2004, the best performance in more than a decade.
More: bloomberg.com
Australias PBL holds up following Packer death
Australias Publishing and Broadcasting Ltd is expected to continue to pursue growth through its casino business, with little likelihood of a quick-fire break-up of the news-to-gaming group following the death of media mogul Kerry Packer.
Shares in PBL eased just 2% yesterday after the death of Australias richest man, supported by confidence in a management team assembled in recent years and as analysts and fund managers played down prospects of breaking up the A$11.2bn ($8.2bn) group now controlled by Packers son.
James Packer, 38, was expected to continue chasing growth through the casino business, which is expanding in Asia with joint venture partner Melco International Development Ltd.
What were the growth areas a few days ago are the same (now). Clearly, the gaming business has been the focus, said Martin Conlon, head of Australian equities at Schroder Investment Management Australia.
James Packer is widely reported to be less committed to the television business than his father, but analysts said he was unlikely to sell the top-ranked Nine Network in the short-term, particularly as it is still restructuring after a challenge to its ratings dominance by Seven Network Ltd I dont necessarily think the outlook for gaming is inhibited by the TV network, and both can be run quite successfully together, said media analyst Craig Shepherd at broker Commonwealth Securities.
More: gulf-times.com
Middle East: Fatah Heals Split Ahead Of Vote
The rival factions in the Palestinian ruling party Fatah have agreed to heal their damaging split and file a single list of candidates for upcoming parliamentary elections in the territories. Members of the younger ‘new guard’ said Wednesday they are prepared to enter a unified list to boost the chances of Fatah, which is facing a strong challenge from militant group Hamas. The announcement was made at a news conference at the electoral commission office in Ramallah.
“We are registering the new unified Fatah list,” said Sameeh Abdel Fatah, a senior aide to president Mahmoud Abbas. “The unity means the tension and inner struggles are over. Both lists have agreed to unite and end the strife,” Fatah added.
Splits within the party had prompted the submission of a rival list earlier this month, headed by jailed activist Marwan Barghouti. Barghouti and other young generation leaders have challenged veteran leaders seen as tainted by corruption.
Palestinian president Mahmoud Abbas had tried to close the gap by agreeing to put Barghouti’s name at the top of his party list and including those of other rebel faction leaders.
More: adnki.com
Middle East: Israeli Jets Strike Camp In Lebanon
Israeli jets have attacked what the army says is a Palestinian militant group’s training base in southern Lebanon early on Wednesday, hours after an Israeli border town was hit by rocket fire. The Israeli military says the raid was against the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine General Command (FPLP-GC) whom it accuses of launching three Katiusha rockets against the Israeli city of Qiryat Shmona on Tuesday night. The FPLP-GC, a small Syrian-backed group, denied involvement in the rocket attacks which damaged several homes but caused no injuries.
The Israeli air strike was the deepest in Lebanon since June 2004 targeting the PFLP-GC guerrilla base at Naameh, a hilltop site some 7 kilometres south of Beirut.
In a statement the Israeli army said it considered the Lebanese government responsible for these attacks, for not having dismantled terrorist organisations operating in Lebanon.
The PFLP-GC commander in Lebanon, Anwar Raja, told the AP that two guerrillas were slightly wounded in the strike, which caused “limited” material damage and shattered the windows of nearby houses.
He denied that the PFLP-GC was responsible for the firing of Katyushas on northern Israel. Lebanon’s Hezbollah militant group and the mainstream Fatah Palestinian faction denied involvement in firing late Tuesday on Kiryat Shemona.
More: adnki.com
Australia loses media mogul Kerry Packer
Uncompromising media proprietor who became Australia’s richest man and dragged cricket into the television age
KERRY PACKER grew up in the shadow of a famous father and achieved a stature far beyond that of a parent who always treated him with chilling lack of consideration.
Sir Frank Packer was a rumbustious Sydney media mogul, but his younger son was to outstrip him in wealth, fame and influence. Kerry Packer was accepted as Australia’s wealthiest individual, his fortune estimated at Adollars 7 billion (nearly pounds 3 billion).
He was a television and magazine proprietor of immense significance, a skilled player in political lobbying, an enthusiastic gambler, and best known in Britain for the sporting revolution he set off in 1977 with his rebel World Series Cricket. Politicians operated in constant uncertainty about his next move – eager for his support but ready to block efforts to extend his media empire to what they saw as dangerous proportions.
Packer had a name as a bully to his employees, not least his executives, and extended his profanity-spattered truculence to politicians and businessmen. But he could also exude rough-hewn charm, and long-serving staff, valued friends and good causes could benefit from his extraordinary (and sometimes anonymous) generosity.
More: thedailyjournalonline.com
Australia in command in Melbourne
Andrew Symonds and Matthew Hayden put Australia in control of the second Test with a 154-run lead over South Africa on the third day on Wednesday.
Hayden was in sight of his 23rd Test half century on 45 not out to guide the home side to 110 for two at the close after Symonds took a career best three for 50 to help dismiss South Africa for 311.
“It’s a tricky game and to be able to contribute in an important session like that felt good,” said Symonds.
The talented Symonds has been under pressure to hold on to the all rounder’s spot in the side after a poor run of form with the bat.
Brad Hodge on 17 not out was with Hayden at the wicket at the close at the MCG.
“I just felt it was an important time of the game and to be contributing at that stage of the game would have made me feel good anyway, even if I had been scoring runs, so it was a great relief as well,” Symonds told reporters.
More: edition.cnn.com
Australia’s PBL holds up after Packer death
Shares in Australia’s Publishing and Broadcasting Ltd (PBL) eased just 2 per cent yesterday after the death of media mogul Kerry Packer, supported by confidence in a management team assembled in recent years.
Analysts and fund managers played down the likelihood of any quick break-up of the $A11.2 billion ($NZ12.2 billion) media and gaming group built up by Australia’s richest man and now controlled by his son James, PBL’s executive chairman.
The younger Packer is widely reported to be less committed to the television business than his father, but analysts said he was unlikely to sell the top-ranked Nine Network in the short-term, particularly as it is still restructuring after a challenge to its ratings dominance by Seven Network Ltd.
“I don’t necessarily think the outlook for gaming is inhibited by the TV network, and both can be run quite successfully together,” said media analyst Craig Shepherd at broker Commonwealth Securities.
The death of Packer, 68, an old-fashioned media mogul and a feared but shrewd businessman, was announced on the company’s Nine TV network on Tuesday.
More: stuff.co.nz
The Kimberley
Pressed between the Indian Ocean and the Great Sandy Desert, the Kimberley’s 320,000 square kilometers of rough, raw tropical bush are broken only by unpredictable rivers, magnificent boulder-stacked cliffs, and tiny pockets of settlement. Only rugged souls venture past the beach mecca of Broome, but those who do are rewarded by a wilderness experience they won’t soon forget. Occupying the entire northern end of Western Australia, the Kimberley is accessible from the rest of the state by flights to Broome or via a long, lonely desert highway from Port Hedland, and from the Northern Territory via Routes 1 and 96, which branch off the Stuart Highway. Within the region, the only major paved route is the Great Northern Highway. Most other roads, including the Gibb River Road and its offshoots in the northern Kimberley, are unsealed 4WD tracks. Flooded rivers during the monsoonal Wet (Nov.-Mar.) often close these roads altogether; the East Kimberley is wetter than the West. Call ahead for road conditions (tel. 1800 013 314) and register with the police before setting off. like the rest of the tropics, the Kimberiey’s high season is the Dry (Apr.-Oct.), and temperature doesn’t vary nearly as much as precipitation.
THE PILBARA
Red dust and iron ore are the stuff the Pilbara is made of. Miles of flat, hot coastal plain are populated by a handful of mining and port towns. The region has a tropical climate: wet in the summer, dry in the winter, and hot year-round. The dramatic Hammersley Ranges add spice to the otherwise monotonous landscape. Its roads are surrounded by prickly spinifex grass and gum trees, and is often festooned with kangaroo carcasses. Heat, floods, cyclones, winds, and mosquito-bourne disease are just some of the impediments to settlement in the region. But despite all this, the Pilbara is a compelling destination for tlie seasoned traveler. Take the time to visit the gorges of Karijini National Park, the Aboriginal rock carvings of the Burrup Peninsula, and the historical towns and sheltered beaches of Roebourne and Point Samson, and you may bepleasantly surprised by the treasures hidden in this scrubland.
Outback Coast And Gascoyne Region
With its safe swimming, spectacular diving and snorkeling, and lively marine life, the Outback Coast stretches from Shark Bay and its dolphins in the south to the whale sharks and corals of the Ningaloo Marine Park in the north. Though the region sees plenty of visitors year-round, winter is peak season, when caravanning Perthites park themselves along the sunny coast to wait out the cold weather down south.
Of the major coastal destinations between Perth and Exmouth, only Geraldton and Carnarvon are actually along Hwy 1. Kalbarri, Shark Bay, and Exmouth all require significant detours. The routes from the highway to the coast are all paved, but service stops are up to l60km apart, and the roads become hillier and narrower. Keep your eyes peeled for wandering ‘roos, emus, sheep, and cattle in the road. Heading north from Kalbarri or south from Carnarvon, you’ll pass a roadhouse at Overlander marking the turn-off for Shark Bay. It’s a 129km drive northwest along the Peron Peninsula to Denham, then another 24km to the Monkey Mia Reserve. The road to Coral Bay and Exmouth splits from the North West Coastal Hwy 350km north of the Overlander just past the 24-hour Minilya Roadhouse. Turn left to head to Exmouth, 217km to the north. Hwy 1 continues toward Port Hedland.
Midlands And Batayia Coast
Renowned as much for the seas of bright color that blanket the region during the autumn wildflower season as for its beautiful coast, this region depends on fishing, agriculture, and tourism to earn its keep. The Branch Hwy marches north from Perth a few dozen kilometers inland from the coastline of the Indian Ocean, while the wheat-growing Midlands extend for hundreds of kilometers to the east. The Batavia Coast stretches from just north of the Pinnacles up as far as the red cliffs of Kalbarri, and takes its name from the most famous of the many shipwrecks that litter its waters. A handful of small fishing towns dots the shore, and there’s good swimming all along. While swarms of tourists descend upon the Midlands during wildflower season, Geraldton’s high season is the summer when the windsurfing is at its best, and Kalbarri’s is the winter.
GOLDFIELDS
A few hundred kilometers east of Perth, a handful of gold mining towns cling tenaciously to an existence in the middle of WA’s desert- Since 1903, water has been piped into the region and signs everywhere warn against wastage. People seeking employment follow this trickle toward Kalgoorlie, the center of the local mining industry. Although there are a handful of sights in the area, Kal is a long way from, anything and not much of a destination in itself. If you’re heading west to Perth from Eyre, you’re probably better off circumventing this area and heading south instead. The coastal towns along the scenic South Coast Highway make for a much better trip.
GREAT SOUTHERN
Stretching from the karri and tingle forests of Pemberton and Walpole, through the rugged Porongurup and Stirling Ranges, to the vast scrubland at the beginning of the Nullarbor Plain, the Great Southern region possesses an expansive beauty. The character of the land and people changes as one follows die South Western Hwy (Hwy 1) east. Albany functions as a sort of urban hub for the sparsely populated southern coast, and by the time you reach Esperance, Perth’s cosmopolitan strivings seem a world away.
The largely agricultural Great Southern is home to a number of respected vineyards, many of which offer complimentary wine-tastings. Tourism is another key money-maker, peaking in the spring wildflower season and in the summer, when the beaches around Denmark, Albany, and Esperance draw tourists like flies to honey. Winters in the Great Southern can be chilly and wet, so bring a good jacket.
SOUTH WEST
The Indian Ocean coast of Southwest Australia is experiencing a boom in both tourism and year-round residency. This winery region features a mild climate of wet winters and dry summers, the world’s greatest variety of wildflowers, and beautiful dunes. And it’s primed for visitors. Many of the hostels, caravan parks, and even vineyards in the area are less than five years old. Land prices are rising and large commercial wine makers are moving in. Meanwhile, cattle and sheep stations – the latter long profitable as a source of Merino wool – are being pushed out. The Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM) is struggling 10 set limits on beachfront development and combat the destructive effects of tourism on the environment.
Mother Nature has been kind to Australia’s Southwest; the region’s spectacular scenery and mild climate make it a favorite destination for travelers from around the globe. Hikers rave about the Stirling and Porongurup Ranges, and many surfers swear by the Southwest’s gorgeous beaches and pounding waves. Bushwalking in the region’s karri and jarrah forests is a unique experience, and few visitors leave the Southwest without having gone on a whale- or dolphin-watching cruise. The Mediterranean climate is ideal for vineyards, and the region has witnessed a recent explosion in commercial wine-making. It’s worth a trip just to tour these wineries and try your tongue at some tasting.
The easiest way to see the region is by car. Many sights are well off the bus routes, and public transportation in many of the region’s towns is either nonexistent or inadequate. Tours can be arranged to many sights, but costs can be quite high. Nevertheless, several options exist for the auto-less. Some travellers use the Easy Rider Backpackers bus.
PERTH
Spread out like a picnic by the tranquil, lake-like Swan River and the eternal surf of the Indian Ocean, everything in Perth is as easily done outdoors as in, in sandals as in shoes. Rumor has it that WA spurns daylight saving time so that business executives can get in a quick surf before work. This mellow attitude is a point of pride for many Perthites, as is their city’s status as the world’s most isolated capital. (Adelaide, the nearest state capital, is at least a two-day drive away.)
But isolation does not mean desolation, WA’s capital, home to 88% of the state’s population, is an extreme example of Australian demography. Business booms of the 80s and 90s injected fresh funds into the city, which now bristles with new skyscrapers and condominiums. The growth is easy to understand, given the clean air, accessible beaches, gorgeous sunsets, and mild climate. Yet as central Perth grows, some nostalgic residents point to Fremantle, the city’s port and the other focus of Perth’s energy, as the example to emulate. Funds flowing into “Freo” have been spent on historic, restorative facelifts rather than skyline lifts. In between Freo and the city center lie parks, sails, beaches, and plenty of souls content to share with visitors the lifestyle that their city is famous for. If you’ve made the effort to cross die kilometers to Perth, you’ll be more than welcome: pick your patch of sand and join the picnic.
Western Australia
To say that Western Australia is immense is something of an understatement. The water pipes that stretch from Perth to Kalgoorlie are the length of England. The state boundaries enclose an area three-and-a-half times the size of Texas and could contain the Netherlands 70 times over. You can drive for hours along the desert roads without seeing another car. Yet most visitors, like most Westralians, never see more than a fraction of it. Of the state’s 1.7 million people, 1.3 million live in the Perth area, and most of the rest are close to the coast, among the vineyards of the southwest or along the .surf-pounded capes of the northwest. Perth, WA’s capital, is a modern city complete with shiny skyscrapers, four universities, andin the words of the American consulate – “the kind of weather that California thinks it has.”
From cute quokkas in the south to camels and saltwater crocs in the north, WA is home to a range of uniquely Australian wildlife. The state’s interior is covered with miles and miles of desert, spinifex grass, and sandy plains, but to tourists, WA is best known for wildflowers and woods. Between August and November, 8000 flower species bloom in carpets in the Pilbara and along the coast south from Exmouth into the Great Southern. Southwestern WA is the domain of old-growth forests. Among the world’s largest trees, the majestic karri reaches heights of 80m and stand in defiance of the state’s thriving wood-chipping industry. In the north, the desert gives way to the nigged tropical vegetation of the Kimberley. Though drenched by monsoons during the wet season, this region is gorgeous, if inaccessible, from April to November. A few rough roads carve through the huge expanses of rainforest, unearthly rock formations, and spectacular waterfalls that cascade into the Indian Ocean.
Sheer isolation reinforces Westralians’ independent nature. In 1933, a state referendum revealed a two-to-one preference to separate from the Commonwealth of Australia. Secession never became a political reality, but the self-sufficient spirit that bred the movement remains a subtle undercurrent. While many proud Westralians depend on heavy industry for their livelihood, a growing number are fighting for the protection of their state’s natural resources. Ecotourism and promotion of natural attractions have begun to edge out the fishing and animal husbandry industries; tourists certainly prefer swimming with the dolphins at Monkey Mia to visiting the massive open-pit mines of die outback. But resource exploitation is unlikely to cease, and the continuing debate suggests that sometimes a state just can’t be large enough.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA HIGLIGHTS
Sunset camel rides down miles of sand on Cable Beach, Broome
Gazing down on a lush canopy of giant redtingle from the Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk near Walpole
” Testing your windsurfing skills against the gales at Geraldton
Wading in the dark at Tunnel Creek in the Kimberley
Springtime wildflowers, anywhere, especially along the rigorous climb to Bluff Peak in Stirling Range National Park
” Swimming with whale sharks at Ningaloo Reef, Exmouth
Picnicking with a view over the Swan River from Kings Park, Perth * Sipping local wine after a long day exploring Margaret River’s caves
The unearthly shape of the Pinnacles rising from desert-like dunes
Spying on dolphins from the wind-beaten cliffs of Rottnest Island
Gippsland
As you flip through your scrapbook collage from your trip to Australia, the cutout newsprint headline “Victorian Wilderness” catches your eye. It’s the beginning of a few pages on Gippsland, the southernmost area of the mainland. The first page is filled with photographs of Wilsons Promontory, one of Australia’s most famous parks: gum trees filled with crimson rosellas and cockatoos, a wallaby loose on the heathland, a lighthouse framed against the Southern Ocean, and you, worn out but triumphant after a two-day hike. Turning the page, you see overlapping images that challenge your memory. A photograph of misty rainforest encroaches upon salty coastal marshlands, tern trees and sea snails; along the top, there’s a panoramic shot of the yellow sand and cool green surf of Ninety Mile Beach.
A passage from Man from Snowy River by Banjo Patterson introduces a smattering of pictures from Snowy River National Park; here you look truly exhausted, at the top of a lookout over a rugged, pine-lined gorge. The last page, covering the Gippsland Lakes (a.k.a. Victorian Riviera, at the far east), almost repeats the start. Again, rainforest images overlap with ocean and peninsular scrubland, highlighted by one lucky shot of a solitary penguin by the estuaries of desolate Cape Conran.
The Gippsland region covers the coast and hinterland east of Melbourne and south of the Victorian Alps, all the way to New South Wales. The area from Melbourne to the Gippsland Lakes is called South Gippsland; the rest, East Gippsland. Leaving Melbourne, the Southeast Hwy passes into the South Gippsland Hwy. The Princes Hwy takes an inland route just below the High Country, and meets the South Gippsland Hwy at Sale. From there the Princes Hwy takes over, moving along the coast of East Gippsland until it crosses into NSW. A car is recommended for exploring the region. Almost all important roads are sealed, and many dirt tracks are 2WD-accessible. Greyhound, Oz Experience, and V/Line buses cover some of the territory.
High Country
Victoria’s High Country, tucked between the Murray River and Gippsland’s thick coastal forest, strikes an unexpected counterpoint to the standard Australian sights like Surfer’s Paradise or the Red Centre. Here, ancient forests display dazzling fall colors and rambling valleys nurture spring flowers that shame Crayola. In winter, Mt Hotham and Falls Creek offer the continent’s best skiing, centered around the charming sub-Alpine village of Bright. And while people flock to the coast in summer, there’s a ton to do here too, where Mt. Buffalo’s gorgeous soaring peaks and warm thermal winds support some of the world’s best paragliding in addition to eco-adventures like abseiling and mountain biking. For those who prefer tamer pleasures, the small town of Beechworth boasts a terrific concentration of gold rush era Australiana. All vehicles heading into the mountains must carry chains from June 8 (Queen’s Birthday) until October 1.
Murray River
Australia’s longest river, the Murray rambles along the New South Wales-Victoria border for 2600km before meeting the sea in South Australia’s Encounter Bay. The river became an essential transportation artery in the late 19th century, its waters plied by giant freight-toting paddle steamers. But extensive rail and road networks rendered these boats obsolete by the end of the 1930s and they have since been reincarnated as tourist attractions. Today the river feeds a productive agriculture of vegetables through a complex irrigation system. It’s also a favorite spot for picnicking, water sports, and fishing, drawing travelers for a day or a week of relaxation along the grand old Murray’s banks.
Great Ocean Road
The entire serene and spectacular southwestern coast of Victoria, from Torquay east to Portland, is encompassed by the Great Ocean Road (GOR) region, though the road itself is just the 200km stretch that links Torquay to Warrnambool before being absorbed by the Princes Highway. The Victoria government, in tribute to Australians who died in World War I, commissioned the coastal highway with the intention of creating one of the world’s greatest drives. By all accounts, they succeeded, carving a route that winds between misty temperate rainforests and the unearthly pillars, stone arches, and gorges sculpted by the Southern Ocean.
The 73km stretch from Anglesea to Apollo Bay is particularly striking, as the moist ocean winds confront the brooding forest barrier of the Otway Ranges.
Port Phillip And Westernport Bays
Two semicircular stretches of bayside land curve south from Melbourne to circumscribe Port Phillip and Westernport Bays: the Bellarine Peninsula to the east and the Momington Peninsula to the west. This was the site of the first white settlement in Victoria, a squalid effort that failed within a few years. By the later 19th century, however, its spectacular bay views and sunny, temperate climate made it the site of choice for summer homes of the goldfield-spawned nouveau riche. With the exception of Phillip Island and its way-popular fairy penguins, this area remains largely a haunt of the hoity-toity, a fact that deters most backpackers. Too badthere are plenty of budget opportunities here that allow everyone to enjoy the awesome scenery, sandy beaches, excellent surfing, and outdoorsy fun.
Snowy Mountains
Australia’s highest mountains, the Snowies are a winter wonderland for skiers and snowboarders. Too low, to maintain year-round snow, the mountains attract hikers in the warm months. Kosciusko National Park, home of Mt. Kosciusko (2228m; Australia’s highest peak) and 9 other mountains reaching over 2100m, covers much of the area. Car entrance fees for the park are a steep; take advantage, when possible, of winter bus service. The Snowy Mountains Hwy and the Alpine Way, major routes through the area, feature rambling, boulder-strewn countryside, and clear passage for most of the year.
Melbourne
The capital of Victoria and Australia’s second-largest city, Melbourne is frequently thought of more as an ideal place to live than a great place to visit. This is half true; as Melburnians themselves are likely to tell you, there are countless reasons why this metropolis deserves the oft-touted designation as the World’s Most Liveable City it earned in 1990. But Melbourne’s bad rap as a travel destination stems from its lack of a singular, Kodak-moment icon like the Sydney Opera House or Ayers Rock. Instead, the city is a sleek and stylish cosmopolitan collage of sights and sounds. Both ultramodern skyscrapers and ornate neogothic edifices line its wide streets, and the rumble of the green-and-gold trams that run down them is penetrated now and then by the roar of a hundred thousand sports nuts at the MCG. You might spend one hour window-shop-ping at Southbank’s chic boutiques, and the next comparing ripe fruits amid the bustling clamor of the Queen Victoria Market. Students enjoying late-night caffeine sessions in smoky Fitzroy cafes coexist with club hoppers raging till 6am in South Yarra and Prahran. Sprawling over 6200 square kilometers of urban space and home to over three million denizens, Melbourne needs to be savored, not just seen.
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Victoria
Victoria may be mainland Australia’s smallest state, but it’s blessed with far more than its share of fantastic attractions of the cultural, natural, and historical varieties. Its environment runs the gamut from the dry and empty western plains of the Mallee to the inviting wineries along the fertile banks of the Murray River, from the ski resorts of the Victorian Alps to the forested parks of the Gippsland coast. The capital of the state and the cultural center of the nation, sleek and sophisticated Melbourne overflows with stained glass and elaborate iron latticework. Its multifarious districts offer verdant gardens, eclectic ethnic neighborhoods, seaside strips, and student haunts. And because Victoria is compact and has a well-developed infrastructure, its attractions lie within easy reach of one another and of Melbourne.
Victoria’s most distinctive attractions are found on the coast. West, of Melbourne, which perches conveniently in the center, the breathtaking Great Ocean Road winds its way alongside the roaring Southern Ocean. Hand-cut between 1919 and 1931 from the limestone cliffs, the road passes surfing beaches, coastal getaways, temperate rainforests, and geological wonders, including the Twelve Apostles rock formation, which pokes precariously from the sea like ancient fingers. East of the capital, the coastline unfolds past Phillip Island’s penguin colony and the beach resorts of the Mornington Peninsula, heading into Gippsland. Here, crashing waves collide with granite outcroppings to form the sandy beaches at the edge of the renowned Wilsons Promontory National Park. East Gippsland’s Riviera climate and resort beaches slowly give way to stony, sandy tidal estuaries teeming with birds and fish.
Most of the state’s interior is remarkable less for its natural grandeur than for its historical significance. The mid-19th century gold rush flooded central Victoria with seekers of the sweet stuff. When the ore waned, a host of charming, elegant country towns were left in its wake, today preserved in tourist-oriented nostalgia. Later, legendary bushranger Ned Kelly had a plan to stick it to the man in his wanderings throughout the Hume Corridor. Today, this area is a fertile land of wineries nestled in the shadow of Australia’s ski mecca, the High Country. The 20th century brought extensive agricultural and commercial development, including several massive hydroelectric public works projects that continue to impact the state’s ecosystems. Still, Victoria’s physical beauty remains, tempered by a refined sensibility and cosmopolitan flail- that add a touch of class to Australia’s down-to-earth grit.
The Northeastof Tasmania
Tasmania’s Northeast is blessed with a sunny disposition. Folks here grow up listening to Melbourne radio, drinking Boag’s beer, and disdaining the political antics of the South. The midlands offer wool, the north coast wine, and the sun-coast water, all a gently civilized counterpoint to the state’s famed wilderness. The priceless coastal pockets of Mount William, Freycinet, and Maria Island National Parks are worlds away from the mountainous World Heritage Areas of the south and west. In the middle of miles of flatness, Ben Lomond rises to survey the entire region; its ski slopes provide a bit of winter fun. Self-confident Launceston bustles at the head of it all and the heart of Tassie, a mere three hours’ drive from anywhere in the state.
The South of Tasmania
Anchored by capital Hobart, a beautiful city of good food and good people, the southern end of Australia welcomes travelers to its towns, forests, and coast. Ninety minutes east of Hobart lies historic Port Arthur, the most significant remaining testament to Tassie’s colonial history; 90 minutes west lies the beginning of the vast untrammeled expanse of the South-West World Heritage Area. In between, amid the hop vines of the Derwent Valley and the apple orchards of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, flourish the homes of people who know a good life when they see it.
Australia : Tasmania
With Australia lying empty in a far corner of the Empire, England seemed to have a perfect solution for its 18th-century prison overflow problem. Parliament members happily sent their rabble across the ocean, washed their hands, and went to tea. But lawlessness was still a huge problem in the new prison colony, and penal officials in New South Wales decided to ship the troublemakers away once again. Australia was already at the end of the earth, but Tasmania was at the end of Australia. The British considered assignment to the wild little island, then known as Van Diemen’s Land, to be the worst punishment available, reserved for the most heartless recidivists.
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Flinders Ranges And Outback
As you head north into South Australia’s famed Flinders Ranges, the Australian outback surpasses legend and becomes dirt real. The endless hills of colored dust and sagebrush, with the road threading through them like a dribble, make all the trite sayings come true. Humans become minuscule in the face of the land, the sky never ends, the colors deepen with the setting sun as intense russets, blazing oranges, and soft purples emerge and darken before the burning sun reclaims the land with its unrelenting glare
The Flinders Ranges begin at the northern end of the Gulf of St. Vincent and continue 400km into South Australia’s vast northern outback. Within the Ranges, the southernmost national park is Mt. Remarkable (15,632 hectares). The Flinders Ranges National Park (92,746 hectares) comprises a large portion of the central Ranges, including Brachina Gorge and Wilpena Pound. The Gammon Ranges National Park (128,228 hectares) contains much of the rugged wilderness of the northern Ranges. If you’re planning to hike in the central Ranges, Quorn is the best base. Of course, camping is always an option, especially in the north.
North of the Flinders, a moisture-deprived basin has created the salt flats of Lake Torrens and Lake Eyre. Much of the sparsely populated outback beyond is encompassed by the Desert Parks nature reserve. The Oodnadatta Track is a rough 4WD circuit carving through this area. Most people who travel through northern SA, however, are interested in getting through it as soon as possible en route to the more touristed loci of the Red Centre, including Ayers Rock and Alice Springs in the Northern Territory. The Stuart Highway, which slices the continent in half from Port Augusta up to Darwin, is the quickest and, for the most part, the only option. The road passes through the outback outpost of Coober Pedy on its way to the NT.
A car allows flexibility in traveling this region, but with many roads unsealed, 4WD is essential if you plan to diverge from the Stuart Hwy. Keep in mind that this region, although arid, is subject to flash flooding. Before setting out it is always a good idea to check road conditions on the Northern Road Conditions Hotline. Towns are few and far between, so fill your tank whenever you strike petrol. Carry plenty of water for long drives as well (both for drinking and for your car). Also note that banking services are extremely limited in these parts. Only Cooper Pedy has an ATM, although Quorn has EFTPOS. Carry ample cash and traveler’s checks.
Eyre Peninsula
In the driest state on the driest continent on Earth, the Eyre Peninsula provides a welcome belt of lush countryside, sandy white coves, and pounding, fish-filled surfall uncrowded and removed from anything resembling urban bustle. A popular vacation spot for South Australian residents in the know, the population burgeons during vacation times. The peninsula covers a huge area stretching nearly 1000km from Port Augusta and Whyalla in the east to the border with Western Australia. Projecting into the Southern Ocean and circumscribed to the north by the Gawler Ranges, the main, genuinely peninsular part of the Eyre is traversed by two main routes. The inland Eyre Highway runs 468km from Whyalla west to Ceduna. The coastal triangular route, via the Lincoln Hwy and Flinders Hwy, takes 763km to connect the same two towns. West of Ceduna, the peninsula eases into the mainland as the road to WA sets out across the vast, desolate Nullarbor Plain.
The eastern side of the peninsula offers quirky coastal towns with sheltered bays, good swimming areas, and vast stretches of white sand. At the tip, Port Lincoln rests by the calm waters of Boston Bay, while farther west the rugged coastline bears the full force of the Southern Ocean’s pounding surf. The Great Australian Bight, along Eyre’s west coast, is known for some of the roughest waves in the world and some of the best surfing. Eyre’s appeal lies in its remote inlets and expansive national parks. Even if the towns don’t hold your attention themselves, they provide good bases for exploring mile after mile of spectacular, isolated coastline.
YORKE PENINSULA
On this peninsula west of Adelaide, rolling farmland is punctuated by sandy coves, and sheer cliffs plunge into sheltered bays of the Southern Ocean. The northern half of the Yorke primarily features copper mining history. The towns of Kadina, Moonta, and Wallaroo comprise the Copper Triangle, about a 90-minute drive from Adelaide’s center. These towns offer the most to see and do, with beach access for when you get tired of mining lore. Many travelers head further south, however, for the spectacular ocean views, pleasant surfing beaches, and gorgeous camping of Innes National Park. The Yorke’s southern tip is an additional two hours past the Copper Triangle, between the Spencer Gulf to the west and the Gulf of St. Vincent to the east.
SOUTHEAST OF THE MURRAY RIVER
The majestic Murray River winds west from the Great Dividing Range. Fed by a watershed that spans most of New South Wales and portions of Victoria, the largest waterway in Australia slices through the southeast corner of South Australia and empties into the Southern Ocean. Fruit, especially wine grapes, flourishes along the irrigated river basin, while the Coorong, a 145km stretch of coastal lagoons, supports over 240 species of native birdlife. The towns near the Victoria border can be associated with geographic regions within mat state. The area around Naracoorte is an extension of the agricultural Wimmera district and Mount Gambier continues the themes of Victoria’s southwest coast.
Fleurieu peninsula
The fleurieu (floor-ee-oh) peninsula has rolling hills and sweeping valleys to justify its sing-songy name. The kauma tell the story of tjilbruke, who carried the body of his slain nephew down the coast to cape jervis from where the adelaide suburb Marion now sits. Each time that tjilbruke stopped along the way and wept for his nephew, a spring welled up from the ground. From these tears grew the lush section of South Australia that stretches southeast from adelaide, encompassing the hills and wineries of Mclaren vale. The fleurieu peninsula also boasts the small-town attractions of victor harbor and miles of coastline that include some of the best beaches in South Australia.
ADELAIDE
Once known only for its inordinate number of churches, Adelaide has emerged as a city with far more to offer than an uplifting Sunday sermon. The first completely planned city in Australia, in the first state not to be settled by convict labor, Adelaide Was destined to be different from the other Australian capitals. The one million people who call Adelaide home take pride in the city’s big leafy trees, historic buildings, and flourishing arts scene, and enjoy a big-city lifestyle that belies the lower cost of living. The long list of cultural attractions, headed by the Adelaide Festival of Arts, includes a fine symphony and chamber orchestra, numerous small, experimental theaters, and world-class galleries and museums. With more restaurants per capita than any other city in Australia, Adelaide can satisfy any palate at any budget, and then wash it all down with some of the country’s best wines. For those who prefer a more raucous pace, the nightclubs along Hindly St, the pubs in the city center, and the cafes on Rundle St fit the hedonistic bill.
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South Australia
South Australia exists in a state of sublime schizophrenia. Alongside vast kilometers of harshest, most uncompromising terrain on the continent, peaceful vineyards sleep lazily and a sophisticated city basks under a steady sun. Capital Adelaide is a stately, serene oasis, well-fed and well-watered by some of the best cuisine and finest wines in the country. Gracious buildings line its streets, world-class festivals crowd its boulevards, and hip cafes occupy its East End. As if in defiance. Adelaide’s green parklands challenge the searing heat of the encroaching desert.
This is the driest state in Australia, but also the most urbanized, precisely because its outback is so inhospitable. In SA’s gargantuan, sparsely populated top half, indigenous pitjantjatjara and colonial farmers alike subsist on land which may see rain only a few times a decade, and miners at Cooper Pedy must literally extract a living from the earth. The tenacity of these pioneers is plainly evident to the adventurous traveler who traverses the rugged Flinders Ranges or goes “back of beyond.”
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Sunshine and Fbaser Coasts
The pastel yellow that permeates the Sunshine Coast contrasts sharply with the Gold Coast’s pulsating neon. The Sunshine Coast, in many ways, is a kinder, gentler version of vacationland. The crowds are fewer, but expert surfers still dot the waves. Beaches still envelop well-established towns, and waters still greet those eager to partake in aquatic pleasures. Accessible national parks, like Noosa and Cooloola, replace the more artificial theme parks down the coast, and travelers content to relax are more likely to see koalas in the wild.
The largest of the islands that dot Queensland’s coastal waters, sandy Fraser Island reclines under a cover of rainforest. Wild horses wander through the bush like fantastical unicorns, pausing to drink from the island’s freshwater lakes, and dingoes hunt for wallabies but are happy to take off with shoes instead. On the mainland, Bundab-erg is hailed as a particularly lucrative base for casual labor, and a bevy of workers’ hostels have sprung up to meet the demand.
Southern and Darling Downs
A lush tropical crown atop a vast interior desert, the winterless Top End enjoys perpetually warm weather; seasons here are divided only into the Wet and the Dry. During the May-to-October dry season, backpack-toting pilgrims descend on the city of Darwin to worship its twin deities: a cloudless sky and a shirtless culture. While enjoying the budding metropolis itself, travelers also use this oasis of civilization as a base from which to explore the region’s prime natural wonderKakadu National Park. A spectacular rainforest reserve crawling with exotic antipodean wildlife, Kakadu is Australia’s largest national park and is best explored in the dry season, when the roads are more likely to be intact. The wetlands teem with the saltwater crocodiles that have captured the popular imagination. Crocodile Dundee’s nemesis may become convincing reality on a tour of the park or a visit to a croc farm.
North Coast of Queensland
The northern Queensland coast sits at the junction of the tropical far north, the rugged frontier of the outback, and the civilized cities of the southern coastline. Waving fields and smoking mills represent the region’s greatest industry, sugar cane. Towns-ville, Queensland’s second largest city, is the economic and residential center of the area. Off its shores, Magnetic Island offers solitude and koalas in the wild. Between here and Mission Beach, white beaches glow next to crystalline water, across which the Great Barrier Reef beckons. The miles inland hide swaths of rainforest populated by birds, bugs, and bouncing ‘roos, and between it all, the civilization that clings to the coast wrests its existence from the unrelenting wild.
Moreton Bay
The forest of masts on Manly’s tranquil marina promises smooth sailing on the crystal-clear waters of Moreton Bay. Here, at the mouth of the Brisbane River, a comfortable culture thrives in perpetual slow-motion. Across the bay, North Stradbroke Island offers wonderful snorkeling, diving, and swimming, while several other islands offer even more secluded, relaxed getaways. Although the area lacks pre-packaged fun, its lack of crowds and high-rises make Moreton Bay a mellow place to unwind.
Gold Coast
Gorgeous beaches, thumping nightclubs, excellent theme parks, and plenty of accommodations make the Gold Coast Australia’s premier holiday destination. The region’s permanent population of 390,000 triples to 1.2 million every summer as Australian and foreign tourists flock to the sun, sand, and parties. The term “Gold Coast” has a few possible origins, each of which addresses the its lure. Tourist officials say it’s for the stretches of golden sand beaches; cynics point to high rises and tacky tinsel glitter; realists note the high concentration of visitors in their golden years, mainly in the towns north and south of pulsing Surfers Paradise. You can find personal space by the shore, but forget about it back in the grid. The little-explored but rewarding Gold Coast Hinterland, full of clean rustic towns and rainforested national parks, is a stark contrast from the unashamed artificiality of the coast. While some may find an extended stay culturally dulling, the glitz, noise, and tanning opportunities that comprise the (“oast’s siren song ensure that passing travelers will succumb, if only briefly, to the well-hyped thrill.
Far North Queensland
The northeast corner of the continent, from Cairns north into Australia’s last great! frontier, is nothing short of heaven for backpackers and outdoor adventurers. The Great Barrier Reef snakes close to shore here, luring divers with shorter boat trips and longer visits to the spectacular corals of the reef. The reefs biological diversity is complemented by that of the vast swaths of tropical rainforest, pressed up close to the Coral Sea by the craggy mountains of the Great Dividing Range.
As with most places in Australia, it wasn’t nature but the promise of gold that first brought European settlement here, as a steady stream of prospectors advanced from Townsville to the then-tiny villages of Cairns and Port Douglas. The legacy of the gold rush lives on in Cooktown, Queensland’s northernmost outpost. For the most part, divers have displaced miners in recent decades, and Cairns now caters to travelers with city comforts. Still, the more remote parts of this land remain untamed wilderness. The Captain Cook Highway, named after the premier European explorer of these lands, leads modern-day trailblazers north into the rainforest, which becomes impenetrably dense around Cape Tribulation. Wilder yet is the Cape York peninsula, starting beyond Cooktown and stretching all the way to the Torres Strait, which separates the Gulf of Carpentaria from the Coral Sea and Australia from Papua New Guinea. On Cape York, only the most rugged of tracks allow humans to venture into the ordinal landscape of hungry crocs and unforgiving bush.
Central and Western Queensland
Queensland’s interior has little of the charm of South Australia’s and Northern Territory’s outback, but it is in many ways more authentic. The land is unforgiving, water is scarce, and constant threats such as rabbit overpopulation and locusts have hardened farmers. There are no “cowboys” here: the correct title for a greenhorn is “jack-eroo” (or “jilleroo,” as the case may be). From the third year, workers are called stationhands, and the name “jackeroo” becomes a hard strike against pride. While outback towns can be unkind to outsiders, the people living here maintain an ethic of trust. Folks look you in the eye, and if they don’t like what they see, you’ll know it.
Like so much of this continent, Queensland’s seemingly barren dust was found to hide lodes of all kinds of sweet stuff beneath the surface, and thus began the region’s heyday. The gold rush has lost its luster, for the most part, but gem fossicking is still the backbone of towns with names like Emerald, while rich stocks of metal ore keep Mt. Isa’s smelters puffing. Up by the Gulf of Carpenteria the fishing is excellent, the roads are treacherous, and a single train engine shuttles between isolated Normanton and more isolated Croydon once a week, more out of habit than demand.
Queensland’s vast interior is traversed by a few highways, unsealed in patches. There are several east-west routes connecting to the coast: the Warrego Hwy (54) from Brisbane to Charleville; the Capricorn and Landsborough Highways (66), from Rockhampton through the Gemfields and Longreach to Mt. Isa; the Flinders Hwy (78), from Townsville through Charters Towers and Hughenden to Mt. Isa; and the Gulf Development Rd (1), from the Atherton Tablelands outside Cairns through the Gulf Savannah to Normanton. let’s Go has outlined the rest of this chapter to match the progression of towns, from east to west, along each of these highways, starting with the southernmost. Connecting them all, the so-called Matilda Hwy actually encompasses fragments of the Mitchell, Landsborough, and Capricorn Highways and the Burke Development Rd. It is the major north-south route, running from the NSW border up to Normanton.
Capricorn and Whitsunday Coasts
From the Tropic of Capricorn, the Bruce Highway worms its way north through sugar cane fields and along the tropical coast. Between Rockhampton and Towns-ville, some oceanside towns have morphed into backpacker havens like Airlie Beach, while others, such as Mackay, still grimace at the sight of sandals and an unwashed t-shirt. The isolated Eungella National Park, within easy reach of Mackay, rewards its few intrepid visitors with tumbling waterfalls and elusive platypuses. The offshore islands vary in size and flavor, each with its own beaches and maze-like walking trails. Great Keppel Island, almost within sight of Rockhampton’s shore, lacks roads entirely; the ferry lets passengers off on the beach. Much farther north off Airlie Beach, the Whitsundays are a blizzard of islands with rare, non-figurative Aborigine art and the astoundingly pure Whitehaven Beach. All along the coast, there’s plenty to see under the water as well, with the Great Barrier Reef close at hand.
Brisbane
If it weren’t for Brisbane’s tall office buildings and sleek commuter ferries, you might expect to see cows grazing on the city’s carefully manicured lawns. Although Brisbane (pop. 1-1.5 million, according to varied estimates) is the capital of Queensland and Australia’s third largest city, its recent growth has not obliterated its deliciously relaxed country-town feel, and the city seems like a ruddy-cheeked farmboy who’s suddenly outgrown his britches. Originally a penal colony for recidivists, Brisbane today is neither glamorous nor industrial, but it’s practical, clean, and full of energy.
Brisbane Highlights – Relaxing anywhere in the tranquil South Bank Parklands – An eating experience straight from a daydream at Garuva – Thumping techno and a funky crowd at the Beat in Fortitude Valley – Picnicking in the gardens at Mt. Coot-tha Park, then climbing to the summit for a great view of the city – Daytrip to North Stradbroke Island for first-rate diving and sunbathing along miles of snow-white beach – Art galleries aplenty at the Queensland Cultural Centre
The Brisbane River lends an easygoing grace to the metropolis it bisects. River transportation is simple and enjoyable; hulking ferries and slim kayaks glide between Chinatown and the South Bank Parklands, between investment banks and the trendy West End. Always a good bet for temporary employment, Brisbane earned a reputation as a tourist and holiday destination only recently, after hosting the 1988 World Expo and the 1992 Commonwealth Games. The sunny, warm climate has attracted artistic emigres, eager to shed winter jumpers and rev up the city’s cultural institutions. Today, visitors to Brisbane enjoy the gorgeous, modern Cultural Centre, 19th-century historic buildings, corner cafes, rocking nightclubs, extensive parklands, and a serene waterfront.
Queensland
If the variety of the continent’s attractions could be condensed into one state, the result would look something like Queensland, Australia’s all-you-can-eat traveler’s smorgasbord. Part rocky, part schlocky, part green, part marine, Queensland is the holiday of choice of Aussies themselves. It’s the Pacific Coast that sucks most visitors in like an undertow: the endless surf beaches in the south, the Barrier Reef in the north, and the islands all along propel wave, dive, and sun enthusiasts toward the sea. For many, though, the coast is just surface skin, and the real pudding lies withinin the rainforest-drenched far north and hinterland regions and in the jewel-bedecked outback, where history, like tourism, proceeds at koala-pace. At the base of this fantasyland sits the capital city of Brisbane, big, bustling, and yet temperate in every sense of the word, an urban haven that can actually provide a relaxing break from the constant party that envelops backpackers on the well-trod path up the coast.
Queensland is beloved by travelers because, far from representing the average of Australia’s natural and cultural climes, it displays the full spectrum, from the imposing reds of outback earth to the bright-hued crags of the Great Barrier Reef. Best of all, it juxtaposes these in reasonably accessible distances from one another. Make no mistakeit’s a long, long trek from Brisbane up to Cairns and die northern wilderness beyond, and an equally long and far more desolate one into the central desert. Still, along the way you’ll encounter charming country towns, pockets of th iving Aboriginal cultural life, and plenty of history, interspersed, of course, with miles and miles of beach. Once you make it up to the northern coast, you’ll find plenty of places with urban amenities, gorgeous sea, and untrammeled wilderness within easy reach. Here, appreciating Oz at the extremes can be as simple as driving toward Cape Tribulation and watching the rainforest practically tumble into the pounding ocean.
The Red Centre
The dry, desolate outback at the center of Australia takes its name from the color of the oxidized dust that stretches to the horizon. To many travelers, the Red Centre represents the essence of Australia. Flat lands bake perpetually under a burning sun rarely obscured by rain clouds. The gnarled vegetation is weedy and sparse, and the wildlife is locked in a constant struggle for survival with the unforgiving climate and the unbearable hush flies. Out of this stark landscape, at the geographic center of the continent, rises Uluru (Ayers Rock), a celebrated symbol of die land down under. Alice Springs is the region’s unofficial capital and the gateway to the desert beyond. The region’s natural wonders include the MacDonnell Ranges, Kings Canyon, Ayers Rock, and its companion range, the Olgas, all of which do their best to penetrate the reddish monotony of central Australia. These monuments have magnetic appeal, and tourists flock to the remote Red Centre as if to an eighth wonder, prepared to brave endless distances and risk remote disasters to experience the “real” outback.
The Top End
A lush tropical crown atop a vast interior desert, the winterless Top End enjoys perpetually warm weather; seasons here are divided only into the Wet and the Dry. During the May-to-October dry season, backpack-toting pilgrims descend on the city of Darwin to worship its twin deities: a cloudless sky and a shirtless culture. While enjoying the budding metropolis itself, travelers also use this oasis of civilization as a base from which to explore the region’s prime natural wonderKakadu National Park. A spectacular rainforest reserve crawling with exotic antipodean wildlife, Kakadu is Australia’s largest national park and is best explored in the dry season, when the roads are more likely to be intact. The wetlands teem with the saltwater crocodiles that have captured the popular imagination. Crocodile Dundee’s nemesis may become convincing reality on a tour of the park or a visit to a croc farm.
From November to April, the monsoonal Wet drenches parched hills and stony escarpments. Awesome thunderstorms dump over a meter of rain in unbelievably thick sheets. The Wet can be cruelly restrictive, as riverbeds fill like die Red Sea and roads become impassable torrents, yet the seasonal pulse of die monsoon is the heartbeat which sustains the Top End’s luxuriant array of life.
Northern Territory
Wild, remote, and enormous, the Northern Territory is Australia’s true outback, sparsely populated by people as rugged as its wide range of alternately lush and harsh ecosystems. If you saw Crocodile Dundee or Priscilla, then went to Sydney and wondered where the “real” Australia was, it’s probably here, nestled in some dusty pub somewhere between the croc-infested tropical rainforests of the north and the sun-scorched earth of the Red Centre. But the NT is more than kitschy stereotypes. It is heterogeneous in every aspect-biology, geology, climate, and cultureand the rich patchwork that emerges provides a true adventure for die traveler with gusto and an independent spirit.
Dutch explorers were the first Europeans to infiltrate the region in the 17th century. Discoveries of gold along the Finniss River in 1865 brought more settlers composed mainly of zealous miners and occasionally equally zealous missionaries. No permanent settlement was established until 1924, and it wasn’t until 1978 that Canberra granted die fledgling territory self-government. The fragile nature of this autonomy was revealed in summer 1998, when the Canberra government simply invalidated a new Territory law legalizing medical euthanasia. The resulting Territorian anger gave strength to a movement for statehood, which John Howard’s government seized upon as an opportunity to revitalize the Australian federation. Pending approval by its citizens in a referendum scheduled for October 1998, the NT will become Australia’s seventh state in January 2001. While new to white settlers, the region contains some of the oldest land formations as well as the longest surviving cultures in the world. Million-year-old sandstone formations (like Australia’s most famous image, the vivid red Ayers Rock), gorges, and plateaus imbue an ancient grace to die raw land. Closely linked with these natural wonders, Aboriginal communities possess complex histories that date back up to 50,000 years as well as rich cultural and spiritual ties to the land. Today, one quarter of Territorians are Aboriginal, by far the highest proportion in die country.
Tile Northern Territory encompasses nearly one-fifth of Australia’s land1.3 million square kilometersbut barely more than one percent of its people. Further^ more, the vast majority of its less than 200,000 hearty inhabitants cling to two centers: Darwin, the cosmopolitan capital, gateway to Asia, and mecca for backpackers; and Alice Springs, an isolated desert outpost that clings to its rough-and-ready image despite the influx of cappuccino-drinking tourists. Between the two are stretches of land so astonishingly empty as to bring post-apocalyptic visions to the minds of the brave but lonely drivers who venture across. At the same time, the luxuriant tropics are a paradise forgotten by those who think “outback” is synonymous with barren desert. The Top End’s dramatic gorges, winding rivers, and pristine plunge pools teem with wildlife, highlighted by world-famous Kakadu National Park, die not-to-be-overlooked Litchfield National Park, and the huge Arnhem Land. For travelers who don’t mind being far from bright lights and big cities, the NT offers.
Northwest And Back O’ Bourke
The empty stretches of northwest and far west New South Wales couldn’t be more antithetical to the state’s urbane capital. Although it encompasses the watershed of the Murray and Darling Rivers, the continent’s largest river system, the region’s arid climate has discouraged widespread settlement. So remote is the image Bourke (pronounced “Burke”) evokes in the minds of Sydney-siders, that dubbing the state’s out-hack as “back o’ Bourke” is tantamount to declaring it the end of the earth. Cotton agriculture supports a modest economy, bolstered by the lead and silver mines at Broken Hill. Sprinkled across this lesser-known half of New South Wales are some of Australia’s most remote national parks, including Lake Mungo, which has yielded evidence of human occupation in Australia many tens of thousands of years ago.
Riverina
Dry, brown, and flat, much of the Riverina’s terrain doesn’t look like a land suited for farming, yet heavy irrigation has turned the soil into fertile plains. Although not a prime sight-seeing destination, the Riverina attracts budget travelers seeking seasonal farm or fruit-picking labor in order to save up for more exciting destinations. Two rivers fertilize the system; the Murrumbidgee starts as a trickle in the Snowy Mountains and then widens into a major waterway that eventually joins the Murray.
Hume Corridor
As the major route between Australia’s two largest cities, the Hume Highway provides fast travel without too much in the way of scenery. Upgrades are slowly making the road into a divided freeway for the entire route, but at present some stretches are still two-lane and heavily trafficked. It takes nine to ten hours to cover the 872km between Sydney and Melbourne along the highway, but taking scenic detours along stretches of the Old Hume Hwy where it parts from the new can help spruce up the monotony with some beautiful historic villages tucked away in the countryside.
Snowy Mountains
Australia’s highest mountains, the Snowies are a winter wonderland for skiers and snowboarders. Too low, to maintain year-round snow, the mountains attract hikers in the warm months. Kosciusko National Park, home of Mt. Kosciusko (2228m; Australia’s highest peak) and 9 other mountains reaching over 2100m, covers much of the area. Car entrance fees for the park are a steep; take advantage, when possible, of winter bus service. The Snowy Mountains Hwy and the Alpine Way, major routes through the area, feature rambling, boulder-strewn countryside, and clear passage for most of the year.
South Coast
The coastal towns south of Sydney, strung together by the Princes Hwy, are far less tourist than their northern counterparts. While industry dominates many of the larger towns such as Wollongong and Bega, the smaller coastal towns in between are some of New South Wales’ undiscovered treasures. With a string of beautiful beaches on one side and mountainous escarpment on the other, the South Coast is certainly worth a visit. Cool winters cause the area to be particularly deserted between June and August; the windy coastline retains a certain charm.
New England
A lovely, scenic alternative to the coast, with rustic beauty and a cooler year-round climate, the New England Highway begins in Sydney, continues along Hwy 15 to Brisbane, and is serviced by most major bus lines. Most of this 380km stretch of road is dotted with inviting country towns. The highway traverses the Hunter Valley, with scenery transforming from Newcastle’s industrial machines and coal ships, along Maitland’s vineyards, past Singleton’s army base and mines, and through Muswell-brook’s coal mines and Scone’s horse stud farms. It then begins the dramatic climb up the Dividing Range from Tamworth to Armidale, in New England proper.
The national parks in the New England region (clustered in southern Queensland and northern New South Wales) are worth re-routing an itinerary for. There are absolutely no entrance fees, and almost all of the parks have picnic areas, camping sites, toilets, fireplaces, and spectacular views. Unfortunately, most are accessible only by vehicle (some only by 4WD), although there are companies attempting to start cheap shuttle service.
North Coast
Often called the Holiday Coast by Sydney-siders, this sand-strewn fantasyland of the northern NSW coast caters equally to leisurely backpackers, die-hard surfers, and hordes of families. Newcastle and Port Macquarie, with urban shores only a day from Sydney, draw holiday-makers itching to sunbathe, water-ski, or wet their surfboards At the other end of the spectrum, inland eco-activist centers Lismore and Bellingen thrive on highly productive agricultural land punctuated by scenic national parks and fast-flowing rivers. With virtual cult status, Byron Bay synthesizes these two distinct flavors and seems to have a magnetic pull for all kinds of travelers, luring sunburned and party-ready hordes up the coast and detaining them for a while before they progress toward the Queensland border and the clutch of beaches beyond. For coverage of Tweed Heads, see Tweed Heads and Coolangatta.
Near Newcastle
Fifteen minutes south of Newcastle is Lake Macquarie, Australia’s largest coastal saltwater lake (four times the size of Sydney Harbour) and a holiday hotspot. The shore is popular with surfers and families alike, with great waves, caverns at Caves Beach, and an old mining village at Catherine Hill Bay. Spelunkers must go at low tide so as not to get caught in the caves. Tide tables are at the info center. The district has many caravan parks and motels. It’s also convenient to stay in Belmont or Charlestown, suburbs of Newcastle. The Lake Macquarie information center is at 72 Pacific Hwy in the Blacksmiths (open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-4pm). The mountainous Watagan State Forests separate Lake Macquarie from the Hunter River. An hour from Newcastle and the Hunter Valley, they’re ideal for hikes, picnics, or camping. There are six campsites, most with firewood, barbecues, toilets, and water. Call the State Forests of NSW for more info.
Central West
The cities and towns of the Central West lie between the rugged plateaus of the Blue Mountains and the stark dryness of outback New South Wales. The major route into the region from the east is the Great Western Hwy, which crosses through the Blue Mountains to Bathurst From Bathurst, die Mitchell Hwy heads northwest to Dubbo, Bourke, and beyond, and the Mid Western Hwy runs southwest to Cowra and eventually Hay. Both of these roads intersect the Newell Hwy, the major route between Melbourne and Brisbane, which cuts a long path across the Central West. Most towns of the Central West are regarded as way stations between grander destinations, though several have enough interesting sights to fill an afternoon between buses. Even in a short stay in this region, you’ll notice an extraordinary degree of hospitality from locals who have chosen to live the less hectic life. To get to know this area, however, takes a longer stay with time to appreciate the individual towns’ agricultural or industrial significance.
Canberra
The site selected in 1908 to be the capital of the newly federated nation of Australia was not a thriving center for national affairs. Rather, it was the result of a compromise between the rival poles of Sydney and Melbourne, acceptable to both because of its midway location. The Australian Capital Territory (ACT), including Canberra, suburbs, and parkland, was thus carved out of southeastern New South Wales, but is not governed by that state. life in Canberra has picked up its pace a bit, but even today, many newcomers to Australia are surprised to learn that Sydney isn’t the capital. Canberra maintains a low profile and a refined, unhurried lifestyle to match.
Yet regardless of its reputation as a dull city, the city serves as both a national exhibition and the international face of the political body of Australia. Canberra’s revolutionary design was the outcome of an international competition, won by an American, Walter Hurley Griffin. Construction began in 1913, and the first Canberra Parliament convened in 1927. Today, Canberra supports a metropolitan population of nearly 310,000. Despite the downtown area’s daily hubbub, the streets for the most part remain amazingly quiet. From its unique traffic pattern to its roster of national centers, memorials, and museums, a sense of purposeful order pervades life in this city. The physical beauty surrounding Canberra makes a full day of sight-seeing enjoyable and convenient. It’s not Sydney, nor does it try to be. Still, Canberra’s blend of culture and class may qualify it as one of Australia’s more underrated destinations.
Blue Mountains
For the first 25 years of British colonization, the unscalable walls of the Blue Mountains, just 100km from the coast, contained the growth of the new colony and the exploration of Australia. Numerous expeditions approached the mountains only to come away stumped. Because the so-called mountains are actually a series of canyons separated by several high plateaus, the explorers found cliffs at the edges of the valleys instead of hills. A successful route was not found until 1813, when Blaxland, Law-son, and Wentworth, assisted by local Aboriginal know-how, attempted to cross the mountains along the ridges. Today, the mountains are the first stop on most trips west from Sydney and an easy year-round getaway for Sydney-siders. The short trip inland, just a 90-minute drive or a two-hour train ride, grants summertime visitors a reprieve from the oppressive heat that hangs over the coast. In winter, crisp sunny days, occasional snowfalls, and holiday festivities continue to draw travelers.
Although a variety of adventure activities such as abseiling (rappelling) and canyon rafting have become popular in recent years, the Blue Mountains’ major draws remain their excellent hiking trails and lookouts. Sunlight filtering dirough eucalyptus oil suspended in the air gives the forest its tint. From the lookout points, the earth falls away into an endless sea of blue foliage speckled with white bark and bordered by distant sandstone cliffs. Whether you have a hankering for gorgeous waterfalls, serene rainforest, or jaw-dropping panoramic views, you’ll find it all here.
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Sydney
Sometimes elegant, sometimes wacked-out, and always amazing, Sydney pulses with energy and swaggers with the self-assurance that comes from being one of the world’s great cities. This is where it all goes down, where most international travelers first touch Australian soil and find themselves in a cosmopolitan whirlwind set against a backdrop of concrete, bright lights, and gorgeous waterfront. It isn’t quite as overwhelmingly fast-paced as some cities of equal size; this is Australia, after all, famous for its no-worries attitude. Everyday life here hums along to an exciting but manageable beat. Diversity is to be expected in a huge city, and Sydney is home to numerous Asian and European immigrant enclaves as well as perhaps the world’s premier gay and lesbian scene, which peaks at Mardi Gras in a salacious and sensational celebration.
Beneath all this shiny newness, Sydney is, by Australian standards, as old as cities get. In 1788, its stupendous natural harbor, then referred to as Port Jackson, drew the First Fleet of colonists and convicts north of their intended settlement at Botany Bay. Today, the iconic Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House occupy the foreshores of Sydney Cove and ensure that every visitor spends at least a few photo-framing moments recognizing the importance of the harbor in the life of New South Wales’s capital. On sunny days, when sailboats skim across the water and the sidewalk cafes buzz with a hundred conversations, those few moments easily become hours.
New South Wales
From a historical perspective, there’s no disputing that New South Wales is Australia’s premier state. It was here that British convicts lived through die first bitter years of colonization, dreaming of what might lie beyond the impassable Blue Mountains, and here that explorers first broke through the Great Dividing Range, opening the interior of the country for settlement and ensuring the stability of the colony. In the central plains and on the rich land of the Riverina, Merino wool and agricultural success provided the state with its first glimpses of prosperity. Then, in 1851, prospectors struck gold just west of the mountains, and Australia’s history changed forever. No longer the desolate prison of exiled convicts, New South Wales became a place that promised new life and a chance to strike it rich. Although the gold rush days are over, New South Wales has continued to grow. Today, it’s the most populous state and the well-touristed, diverse, and sophisticated center of modern Australia.
The country’s biggest and flashiest city, capital Sydney sits midway down the New South Wales coast. All along the coast, sandy beaches string together in an almost unbroken scenic strip. Many are great for surfing and swimming, and most are open to the public. The trip up the coast from Sydney is the be-all-end-all of backpacker party routes, while the south coast is colder and far less touristy but every bit as beautiful. Directly west of Sydney’s suburban reaches and just 100km inland, the Blue Mountains separate the coastal strip and its hinterlands from the expansive Central West and outback regions. Once an insurmountable obstacle, the mountains now encompass some of the state’s favorite getaways. The New England Plateau, along the Great Dividing Range north of the wineries of the Hunter Valley, achieves an unusually lush and high-altitude setting for a cozy collection of small Australian towns. Just below the carved-out enclave of the Australian Capital Territory, the Snowy Mountains offer winter skiing and superb summer hiking. The attractions of New South Wales are as varied as the terrain. Whether it’s challenging bushwalks, laid-back surf culture, cosmopolitan fun, or the simplicity of the outback, most visitors find something to write home about.
Australia is big. Really big. When to travel depends on where you’re going and what you’re doing. Most of the country is in a temperate climate zone, with the seasons reversed from those in the northern hemisphere. Summer lasts from December to February, autumn from March to May, winter from June to August, and spring from September to November. For the most part, Australian winters are mild, comparable to the southern U.S. or southern Europe ; snow is infrequent except in the mountains, hut it’s definitely too cold to have much fun at the beach. The north is an entirely different story—many people forget that over one-third of Australia is in the tropics, where it’s always, always hot. Seasons there are defined not by the almost-constant temperature but by the wildly swinging precipitation. “The Wet” lasts from November to April, and “the Dry” is from May to October. Traveling in the Wet is not recommended for the faint of heart; not only will you be rained on, but unseated roads lend to get washed out, making driving a huge challenge in non-urban areas.
A countervailing consideration is that the price and crowdedness of everything from flights to hostel bunks tend to be directly proportional to the pleasantness of the weather. If you’re traveling in the high season, start planning your trip and booking accommodations months ahead of time if possible. As a general rule, tourism peaks when school is out of session. Summer holidays for primary and secondary schools generally include December and January; for universities, they’re from the end of November to the end of February. From Christmas to New Year’s is ultra-peak season. Winter break runs from the end of June through early July.
January and February are the rainy months on the Great Barrier Reef ; the water is clearest between April and October. The toxic box jellyfish is most common near the east coast between October and April. Ski season in New South Wales and Victoria runs between June and September, and the famous wildflowers of Western Australia bloom from September to December. The charts below have useful temperature and rainfall data, while the Appendix (see p. 639) has a list of public and school holidays.
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